Madurai - Athens of the East

Madurai has several epithets - Athens of the East, Temple city, Sleepless City

Madurai is perhaps among the oldest cities in the world and in India after Kasi, Varanasi with a recorded history a history of over 3000 years. Travellers in Ancient Greece, Rome, China have recorded Madurai for its wealth, spices, trading links. As early as the 3rd century BC, Greek traveller Megasthanes visited Madurai

It is known as the "Athens of the East" because of its similarities to Athens, Greece including Elevated structures. The Gopurams of the Meenakshi Sundareswarar temple are visible from anywhere in the city, similar to the Greek Pantheon in Athens.Its Rich cultural heritage and architectural splendor. It's one of India's most popular Hindu pilgrimage centers and is home to many notable sites. And its origins date back to the Sangam period, OVER 3000+ years, a golden age of Tamil literature, and it's thought to be one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. 

Madurai name - Etymology 

Like Kashi this city has a Lord Shiva connection. Legend has it, Lord Indra worshipped God Shiva here. A farmer who saw this reported this to the king Kulasekara Pandian, who built a temple around the Lingam. On the day the city was to be named, Lord Shiva is said to have appeared and drops of nectar from his hair fell on the town. So, the place was named Madurai – mathuram meaning “sweetness” in Tamil. Further Lord Shiva himself performed sixty-four miracles called “Thiruvilaiyadals” here.

All the three Tamil Sangams, which were assemblies of Tamil scholars and poets happened around here. The first sangam happened around 5000 years back, and Sage Agastya was chairman of the sangam. The last Sangam was 300 BC to 400 AD. It produced several Tamil works of sangam literature, comprising of oldest surviving Tamil grammar (Tolkappiyam), the Ettuttokai anthology (the "Eight Collections"), the Pathuppaattu anthology (the "Ten Songs"). Thirukkural is from that era. 

The people are so cultured and polite here, that even road signs give respect to you. Example in Chennai (Nil, Gavani, Sell - stop, observe and go) in Madurai Tamil (Nirka, Gavanikka, Sellga - with respect and in classical Tamil the same is said)

Madurai is dotted with many beautiful temples, including the famous Meenakshi (Devi) temple, Azhagar koil (Vishnu) and Tiruparam kundram (Karthikeya) temples which have rush all year around. These temples have famous festivals every month which is a sight to behold.

It's also a City where you can get food even at 2 or 3am, a city which never sleeps "Thoonga Nagaram தூங்கா நகரம்" in Tamil.

My mom studied in the American college Madurai, she got married to my Dad there, both my sister and brother were born in Madurai as my maternal grand dad was living there. Many famous personalities are from Madurai - Director Mani Ratnam, Late Actor Vijayakanth, Vadivelu, Singers MS Subbulakshmi, TM Soundarajan to current world wide CEO of Alphabet/ Google Sundar Pichai.

I was fortunate to visit 4 temples below.

1. Tiruparam kundram temple, dedicated to Lord Muruga (Karthikeya) son of Shiva and Parvati. Murugan killed demon Suryapadman and freed Indira and other devas. He married Devayani, daughter of Indira here. It's considered the first veedu (house) of his six (aaru padai veedu).

2. Koodal Azhagar temple, dedicated to Lord Maha Vishnu as Sundarrajan perumal and his consort Lakshmi as Mathuravalli Thayar. This temple is referenced in ancient texts of Paripadal and Silappadikaram. The presiding deity was praised and worshipped by the Sangam tamil Poets as the president and guardian deity of the Sangam as Koodal Alagar. Koodal refers to the assembly of Poets and scholars. I was fortunate to have seen all the three poses of Lord Vishnu - seated pose, a temple on top of that in Standing pose snd a temple on top of that reclining pose. Periyalwar (aka Vishnuchitta) composed the Thirupallandu hymn Sung in every vaishnava temple in this temple. The first verse is so beautiful I reproduce below.

பல்லாண்டு பல்லாண்டு, பல்லாயி ரத்தாண்டு, பலகோடி நூறாயிரம், 

மல்லாண்ட திண்தோள், மணிவண்ணா, உன்செவ்வடி செவ்விதிருக் காப்பு

Translation: For several years, several more years , for several thousands of years and for crores of lakhs of years, The strong shouldered blue hued victor of wrestlers, May Your reddish sacred feet be well protected.

3. Madurai Meenakshi temple

It is dedicated to the goddess Meenakshi, a form of Shakti, and her consort, Sundareshwarar, a form of Shiva. 

The marriage of Meenakshi and Shiva was a grand event conducted here with all gods, goddesses and living beings gathered. Vishnu is believed to be the brother of Meenakshi, giving her away to Shiva at the wedding.

The temple is at the centre of the ancient temple city of Madurai mentioned in the Tamil Sangam literature. 

In the early 14th century, the armies of Delhi Sultanate led by Muslim Commander Malik Kafur plundered the temple, looted it of its valuables and destroyed the Madurai temple town along with many other temple towns of South India. The contemporary temple is the result of rebuilding efforts started by the Vijayanagara Empire rulers who rebuilt the core and reopened the temple. In the 16th century, the temple complex was further expanded and fortified by the Nayak ruler Vishwanatha Nayakar and later others. The restored complex now houses 14 gopurams (gateway towers), and it's one of the most beautiful temples in the world.

4. Kall Azhagar temple

It is one of the 108 Divya Desams dedicated to Vishnu, who is worshiped as Kallalagar, and his consort Lakshmi as Thirumagal. Kallalagar is believed to have appeared to redeem sage Suthapava off his curse from Sage Durvasa.

Every year during the Tamil month of Chithirai (April-May), Chithirai Thiruvila is celebrated. Chithirai Thiruvila is an yearly event of the marriage of Meenakshi, believed to be Alagar's sister.

Food:

To end the day, I had a good Tamil sappadu சாப்பாடு (thali meal), at a nice restaurant. There were 4 varieties in Sambar alone ! And finished with a sweet dish which you must have named Jigarthanda.