Varanasi - The soul of indian civilization

Varanasi - The soul of indic civilization 

On my bucket list was a visit to Varanasi with family. Varanasi, aka Banaras aka Kashi on the banks of the holy river Ganges, is among the oldest continously inhabited cities of the world with a history of over 5000 years. It's a center of learning, culture, yoga, spirituality and religion. It has many epithets, the city of lights (Kashi), the eternal city etc For Hindus and Buddhists this is like Vatican for Christians and Mecca for Muslims. Hindus believe God Shiva and his wife Goddess Parvati live here. And dying here is supposed to give Moksha (liberation) from the cycle of births and deaths.

Gautama the BUDDHA founded Buddhism by giving his first sermon at Sarnath near Varanasi around 600 BC. In the 8th century, Adi Shankara established the worship of Shiva as an official sect of Varanasi. Tulsidas wrote his epic, the Ramcharitmanas and Hanuman Chalisa here, and several other major figures of the Bhakti movement were born in Varanasi, including Kabir and Ravidas. In the 16th century, the Mughal emperor  Akbar built two large temples dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu in the city. However emperor Aurangazeb demolished all temples creating unease between Muslims and Hindus which lasts till date as *Gyaanvapi mosque Kashi vishwanath tussle.

Varanasi has 100 plus Ghats, which are flights of steps leading to or banks of the ganges river. Varanasi has also over 1000 temples. The important temples, being Kashi vishwanath temple, maa annapoorni temple, kala bhairav temple, visalakshi sakthi stal, Durga mandir and Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple etc.

We were blessed to have a view of Sunrise over river Ganges in the early morning at Assi Ghat, followed by a boat ride and then a full dip in the Ganges river. PM Modi's constituency is Kashi and he has done a phenomenal job of maintaining cleanliness, being eco friendly (electric vehicles), powering row boats with engines, making the ghats bath friendly and with lots of eateries around. 

The only disappointment for me, is except for Kashi vishwanath temple, all other temples including Kala bhairav, visalakshi temples are very very small (some the size of a living room) and lost in byzantine crowded lanes. Compared to South India, which has majestic temples like Sri Rangam, Chidambaram, Meenakshi temples bigger and with better kept sculptures and patronage. Sadly this is what happens when invaders loot and raze temples. It's amazing these ancient temples have survived years of islamic destruction, just because of the will of common hindu people to preserve thier deities.

Undivided India which was all territories from Afghanistan, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Nepal, Sri Lanka and India was once flourishing centers of both Buddhism and Hinduism. And Varanasi was it's cultural, religious and spiritual capital. Now Buddhism thrives only in Sri Lanka and Myanmar. And Hinduism in India and Nepal. Afghanistan, Pakistan and Bangladesh became Islamic countries. 

Varanasi is famous for food items like Banarasi paan, Lassi, Dum Aloo Banarasi. Snacks like poha, poori baaji, kachori, rabdi, jilebi, kulfi, gulab jamoon etc  it's a foodies delight. And the world famous Banarasi silk Saree, carpets, glass bangles, metal work etc. It's a craftsmanship paradise.

I used to discuss the difference between two ancient civilisations of India and China with my Chinese friend.  He wondered how India remained united despite not having a single common language (like chinese language) or a common ruler (like the chinese emperor) over such a large landmass and population over many thousands of years. I said our country remains united due to soft power of the deeply religious and spiritual nature of indian people, an indic civilization which sees oneness of mankind cutting across territories, kingdoms  languages and even relegions. Vasudaiva Kudumbakam, the world is one family. Invaders can raze the temples but cannot subjugate the soul of the people. And the soul of India lies in Varanasi. 

Nash Narasimhan Tupil 
July 2022
From Varanasi













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