10 Ancient temples around Trichy, Tamil Nadu.

10 Ancient temples Around Trichy, Tamil Nadu.

Trichy is geographically the center of Tamil Nadu state, both east-west and north-south side.The city is credited with being the best livable city, the cleanest city of Tamil Nadu, as well as the fifth safest city for women in India. Many famous educational institutions like St Joseph college, NIT, IIIT, IIM, BIM, TN LAW, TN Medical colleges are here. I did my MBA at BIM business school and hence lived near Trichy for 2 years. My aunt used to live in Srirangam for many decades. I will cover today, 10 temples which hold significance for Hindus.

1. Sri Ranganathaswamy temple, Srirangam

Truly blessed to have a very close Darshan of Lord Ranganatha swamy in Srirangam. We waited for one hour but it was worth the wait. For the uninitiated, Srirangam is considered the biggest functioning Hindu temple in the world, as it covers an area of about 631,000 square metres with a perimeter of 4 km (10,710 ft). Angkor Wat in Cambodia is bigger but non-functioning. And Srirangams 14 storey raja gopuram is one of the tallest temple towers too. The temple occupies an area of 155 acres (63 ha) with 81 shrines, 21 towers, 39 pavilions, and many water tanks integrated into the complex making it the world's largest functioning Hindu temple. It's city by itself.

Lord Rama is considered a supreme God in India. Do you know who Lord Rama worshipped as his own God? It's Lord Ranganatha, a swayambu incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the kula devata of Ishvaku dynasty in which Lord Rama was born. This temple was constructed in 100 BC (2100 years) and has found mention in vedas (samudra manthan), Ramayana and Mahabharata, all 4000 year old texts, making it among the most ancient temples of India.

Srirangam is among a few "self-manifested" shrines (Swayam Vyakta Kshetras) of Lord Vishnu. And the first among the 108 Divya Desams. The temple is considered as one of the eight Sywayambu Kshetras of Vishnu where presiding deity is believed to have manifested on its own, along with Badrinath, Tirupati Tirumala, Saigrama Muktinath, Naimisaranya etc. Its also one of the five pancharanga shrines. All the 12 always have sung praises of this temple. And great saints such as Ramanuja, Vedanta Desika and even poet Kambar have deep associations with this temple. The Tamil cholas kings built big temples. Be it The Tanjore Big temple (dedicated to shiva) or Sri Rangam temple (dedicated to lord Vishnu) or even their descendants who built Angor Wat in combodia (Dedicated to Lord Vishnu and later to Lord Buddha). 

The temple was looted and destroyed by the Delhi Sultanate armies in a broad plunder raid on various cities of the Pandyan kingdom in early 14th century. The temple was rebuilt in late 14th century, the site fortified and expanded with many more gopurams in the 16th and 17th centuries by Vijayanagara and Nayaka and later Maratha rulers. It was one of the hubs of early Bhakti movement with a devotional singing and dance tradition.

Vaishnava Divya Desam is one of the 108 Vishnu and Lakshmi temples that is mentioned in the works of the Alvars, the poet-saints of the Sri Vaishnava tradition. Of the 108 temples, 105 are in India, one is in Nepal, and the last two are believed to outside the earth, in Tirupparkatal (Celestial Ocean) and Vaikuntham (Celestail heaven). In India, they are spread over the states of Tamil Nadu (84), Kerala (11), Andhra Pradesh (2), Gujarat (1), Uttar Pradesh (4), and Uttarakhand (3). Muktinath, Saligramam is the only Divya Desam in Nepal. Tamil Nadu has got a whopping 84 out of 106 temples. Truly a heaven for a temple run. Srirangam is No.1 on this list.

2. Uchi pillayar (Rockfort Ganesh temple) 

I visited the உச்சி பிள்ளையார் uchi pillayar Ganesh temple in trichy, also called the Rockfort temple. It's perhaps the oldest Ganesh temple in india. Legend has it After the war and exile were over, Lord Rama gifted a statue of Lord Vishnu to King Vibeshana, brother of King Ravana. Since Sage Agastya , did not want the statue to be taken from India, he requested Lord Ganesha to help. In the disguise of a small boy, he tricked Lord Vibishana to keep the Idol at Srirangam, which became affixed to the ground. Then all the way from Srirangam, Lord Ganesha was chased to the top of the small hill. After revealing his true identity, Lord Ganesha blessed King Vibeshana abundantly. Lord Ganesha also resides on top of the hill and blesses everyone who comes to visit him. The rock is geologically older than Himalayas. It's over billion years old. It's about 300 feet tall. You get a beautiful view of the trichy city and cauvery river and the srirangam temple.

3. Kattu Azhagiya Singa Perumal (Narasimhar) koil 

Koil or Kovil in Tamil is same as temple in English, Mandir in Hindi, devastanam in Telugu, Kannada etc. AZHAGIYA means beautiful. SINGA means Lion. Perumal means supreme being or God. Why is a ferocious Lion considered beautiful? Because the God is compassionate to his devotees and came in an instant. Compassion is beautiful in any culture. Narasimha (Nar Singh in north) was the fourth incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Lord Narasimha landed on the earth with a specific mission that lasted only for a few minutes. The purpose of Lord Narashimha manifestation was to put an end to the arrogant demon Hiranyakasipu. The Lord came in the most attractive and ferocious Man and Lion form (Nara + Simha) and annihilated the vicious demon to restore dharma on the earth. As this temple  was in a forest and not accessible for a long time, no alwar saint got the opportunity to sing about this Lord. Let me atleast start singing the praise of this Lord. Jai Narasimha! 

4. Jambukeshwarar Temple (Thiruvanaikovil திருவனைகோவில்)

Thiruvanaikovil is a neighbourhood in the city of Tiruchirappalli in Tamil Nadu, India. It is situated on the northern banks of the Kaveri river, on the Srirangam Island. The temple's presiding deity is Lord Shiva (Jambukeshwara) and the goddess is Shri Akhilandeshwari. It is revered as one of the Pancha Bhōōta Sthalam (The Five Elements).  Water is the presiding element in the temple. There is a freshwater spring underneath the Shiva Linga. And Shiva is worshipped as water element here.The entrance to the the garbhagriha (sanctum-sanctorum) is so small that an elephant cannot enter inside. Adi Shankara is said to have visited this shrine and has done the Tatankya (Ear Rings) Pratishtha for the goddess to ensure that she remains in a Sowmya Rūpa (Peaceful form). The temple is around 1800 years old and was built by Kocenganna Chola. The temple is one of the hosts for the annual Natyanjali, a festival of classical Indian dance. The temple has also a school for training nadhaswaram, a classical pipe instrument in Tamil Nadu.

Like the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai and the Kamakshi Amman Temple in Kanchipuram, Akhilandeshwari is famous in this temple. As the story goes, Goddess Parvathi as Akhilandeshwari found the Jambu forest to perform her penance. Here, she made a Lingam out of water and worshipped it, which is known as the Appu Lingam.  Lord Shiva appeared to her and taught her the Shiva Gnana (the ultimate knowledge by Lord Shiva). As Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvathi share a Guru and disciple relationship here, the Shivaratri celebrations of Girija Kalyanam (wedding of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvathi), which is otherwise conducted in Shiva temples is not performed in this temple, and the idols in the temple are installed opposite each other. Lord Shiva is worshipped as the highest teacher, adi yogi, in the ancient Indian tradition. Water symbolises wisdom and the flow of water represents learning. The Jambukeshwarar temple therefore symbolises the significance of wisdom and learning in the most beautiful way. It is said that those who offer worship at this temple will be bestowed with wisdom and intelligence. Was astounded to see the grand arches, the carvings, the 108 lingams all preseved very well after 18 centuries. Om Nama Shivaya

5. Thayumanavar koil

The Thayumanavar Temple is a temple situated in the Rockfort complex (Malaikottai மலைக்கோட்டை). Shiva is worshipped as Thayumanaswamy. According to Hindu legend, a pregnant woman named Rathnavathi was an ardent devotee of Shiva and he arrived in the form of her mother to attend to her delivery. The presiding deity is thus named Thayumanavar, the one who acted as mother. The deity is revered in the 7th century Tamil Saiva canonical work, the Tevaram, written by Tamil saint poets known as the nayanars and classified as Paadal Petra Sthalam.

Many mothers pray for safe and smooth delivery for thier daughters. When the grand child is born, they give hundreds of bananas as offering to pilgrims who climb up the stairs in rockfort temple. I went at a time when lot of women gave me bananas and I merrily munched them and took a few back in the car to the hotel. 

6. Gunaseelam Prasanna Venkata chalapathy koil 

Gunaseelam Temple is located 20 km, before you reach Trichy on the bangalore highway. I visited this temple first as I drive down from Bangalore and its located on the banks of river Kaveri. Its among the 108 Divya desams. A visit temple is believed to give mental peace and happiness. This temple is believed to cure mental illness from ancient times. The temple has set up a mental health rehabilitation centre that has the official stamp of the Tamil Nadu Government license, the first of its kind in Tamil Nadu. The centre is equipped with individual rooms and toilet facilities. A psychiatrist visits the centre once every week. There are volunteers who take care of these mentally challenged people on a daily basis. Sacred water is splashed on these mentally challenged people each day during Uchi Kaalam (noon) and Artha Jaamam (night) for 48 days. Belief is that one will get cured if they sincerely offer their prayers to the Lord and follow this process. It is today a blend of faith and modern treatment. People who are unable to travel to Tirupati Tirumala can give thier (nerthi kadan) offerings for vows like Hair, Jewels etc in this temple instead. I went for utchi kala pooja and got water splashed with a gentle tap of stick too on my head as a blessing. The line was long but was worth it.

7. Kamalavalli Nachiyar Koil aka Azhagiya Manavala Perumal Temple 

This is No.2 in 108 Divya Desam after Sri Ranganatha temple. Nachiyar in Tamil means Goddess. Kamalavalli means a girl born inside a Lotus flower. Goddess appeared on earth on a Lotus flower and a Chola king adopted her as his daughter. She grew up and fell in love with Lord Ranganatha (form of Maha vishnu) and he came to this town to marry her. Vishnu is referred as Azhagiya (Handsome) Manavalan (Bride). Azhagiya Manavalan Perumal Temple is glorified in the Divya Prabandham, the early medieval Tamil canon of the Alvar saints from the 6th–9th centuries AD. The current temple is 1200 years old,  is believed to have been built by the Medieval Cholas of the late 8th century AD, with later contributions from later Pandyas, Vijayanagar kings and Madurai Nayaks. Azhagiya Manavalan is believed to have appeared to Kamalavalli, the daughter of Chola king Nanda Cholan, in this place to marry her. Time came when Kamalavalli fell in love with Vishnu in the form of Ranganatha, the presiding deity of Srirangam Ranganathaswamy temple. The Chola king readily got her married to Ranganatha, who appeared here as the groom. Since Vishnu appeared as Azhagiya Manavalan, meaning a beautiful groom, the temple built here is called Azhagiya Manavalan Temple.The event is celebrated as Serthi Sevai festival every year.

There is an interesting story about Thirupann Alzwar, (திருப்பாணாழ்வார்) an ardent devotee who was denied entry into the temple, as he was from lower caste, by the chief priest. The Lord in unhappy, appears in the dream of the chief priest and asks him to carry the Azhwar in his shoulders the next day, which he obeys. The azhwar composes just 10 verses, praises the lord and merges with the Lord (like Andaal another azhwar) and attains moksha or salvation.To be in the same temple where such an even happened 1200 years ago, will give you goose bumps.This story exemplifies, for the Lord, only true faith and devotion matters. caste, colour or creed is no bar for a true devotee to reach his lotus feet . Lord’s grace and benevolence is showered on his true bhakthas without any discrimination. 

Also this is a great temple for poor people to get married, at a very low cost, with a simple wedding. The government has launched a scheme where a boy and girl can get married along with 20 of thier close relatives in attendance, with meals served, new dress for bride and groom, mangal sutra etc for just Rs.20,000 or $300. Nowadays people have grand destination weddings which sometimes end in short unhappy marriages. This temple believes perhaps in simple weddings and long and happy marriage like God Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi. Om namo narayanaya.

8. Uttamar Koil aka Bhikshandar Kovil

Another beautiful temple, I saw recently was Uttamar Koil aka Bhikshandar Kovil, built in 8th century by Cholas - 1200 years back. This is perhaps the one of the very few temple where Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva all are present with thier consorts Saraswati, Lakshmi and Parvati respectively all in one place. It is one of the 108 Divya Desams dedicated to Vishnu. As per legend, Brahma and Shiva both had originally five heads. Parvati, the wife of Shiva, once got confused and worshipped Brahma, instead of her husband. Shiva got enraged and cut off one of Brahma's heads; the head stuck in Shiva's hand due to Brahma's curse. To atone for the sin, Shiva worshipped Vishnu here; Shiva was fully relieved of the curse after worshipping Vishnu. Vishnu requested his consort Lakshmi to give alms to Shiva. Shiva's grail was filled by the alms and Lakshmi came to be known as Poornavalli Thayar (the one who filled the grail).

In Rameshwaram, we see Lord Rama, an avatar of Vishnu worship Shiva to get rid of the sins of killing Ravana. In the temple, Shiva is worshiping Vishnu to atone for the sin of hurting Brahma. Even the Gods perhaps need other Gods to help them, perhaps once in a while.

9. Vekkali Amman Temple (Shakti)

This temple is dedicated to Goddess shakthi in the form Vekkali Amman. The temple has no roof over the sanctum. The roof over the sanctum was constructed during different times, but is believed to be burnt by the power of Vekkali Amman. The position of the leg of Vekkali Amman is different from other Shakti temples, where the right leg is placed over demon. As per Hindu legend, the position requires lot of energy and while Nataraja, during his dance switched his legs, Vekkali Amman remained in the position to show her energy levels. The posture is also believed to signify kindness, love, affection and compassion to her devotees. Most temples face East. This temple faces North. Historically, temples facing north, are considered to provide victories on endeavours. The Cholas worshipped the deity before proceeding to military campaign. The people of Woraiyur see Vekkali Amman as the saviour deity during difficult times.

10. Samayapuram Mariamman Temple 

Samayapuram is an ancient Hindu temple in Tiruchirappalli in Tamil Nadu, India. The main deity, Samayapurathal or Mariamman, a form of supreme mother goddess Durga or Maha Kali or Aadi Shakthi, is made of sand and clay like many of the traditional Mariamman deities is considered as most powerful Goddess, and hence unlike many other Hindu deities there are no abhishekams (sacred bathing) conducted to the main deity, but instead the "abishekam" is done to the small stone statue in front of it. It is believed by the devotees that the Goddess has enormous powers over curing illnesses and hence, it is a ritual to buy small metallic replicas, made with silver or steel, of various body parts that need to be cured, and these are deposited in the donation box. Offerings of raw salt is also made to the Goddess by the rural devotees.

Samayapuram is the second most wealthy (in terms of cash flows) temple in Tamil Nadu after Palani. Samayapuram is a significant symbol of the native culture in rural Tamil Nadu and there a number of unique practices concerning the Mariamman temples. Samayapuram has been used a model to describe rural folklore in a number of research works on sociology and religion. During festivals, it is not unusual to find people doing extreme things to make their bodies suffer as an act of sacrifice including, walking over a red-hot bed of charcoal and holding hot mud-vessel in bare hands. Mariamman temples also typically involve Samiyattam wherein through a devotee (usually a female) Goddess Mariamman chooses to talk to help and bless the gathered devotees. 

The legacy of Samayapuram is well spread beyond Tamil Nadu. Even after centuries of emigrating from India, many people in Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Singapore, South Africa and Fiji still maintain their loyalties to the temple and try to create similar temples and environment in their new country, raising an appreciation of diversity. I was very impressed with the paintings on the ceilings. How difficult to do, but almost faultless paintings in these temples.

In a day, only one mega garland is worn by goddess. And legend says, she chooses who can offer her that. I had the GREAT fortune to buy a 8 feet flower garland, before noon that day. And the garland I bought was worn by the goddess and they did a special archana for our family.

And a trip to Tamil Nadu is not complete without drinking KaliMark Bovonto. A fizzy grape juice which has a history to rival coca cola. They started making this in 1916 over 107 years old. 

With this my Trichy temples series comes to an end. Hope you enjoyed the description and pics. 

Nash Narasimhan Tupil